Dulce de leche… Argentine?
Many have tried to dispel the myth that dulce de leche is an Argentine invention. Some experts on the subject argue that even during colonial times, a similar product was known in the area of Cuyo – near the Andes Mountains – coming from Chile. Others claim that a legend similar to the one about the origin of Argentine dulce de leche was already told by Napoleon's troops. However, if that were the case, today we have yet to see the French adopt this exquisite sweet for themselves.
But what does the legend say about the origin of dulce de leche? Around 1829, Argentina was embroiled in internal conflicts on its path to becoming a unified nation. The clashes between Unitarians and Federals defined the political era, during the government of Rosas in Buenos Aires Province. It was July 1829. Juan Manuel de Rosas and his political opponent, Juan Lavalle, were about to sign a pact to try to end the internal disputes. The venue for this agreement was Rosas's estancia in Cañuelas. It seems Lavalle arrived first and, exhausted from his journey, fell asleep on the bed belonging to the 'Restorer of Laws' – as Rosas was known. This seemed to upset a maidservant of Rosas, who was preparing the dulce de leche to accompany mate. When Rosas arrived later, he asked to let Lavalle rest, and the maid forgot the milk boiling on the stove. Hours later, she remembered the milk and found it thickened into a brown, paste-like substance. A soldier in Rosas's army tasted it and thought it was delicious. Thus, the legend of the Argentine dulce de leche was born.
At this point, whether through genuine paternity or adoption, dulce de leche is considered one of the best Argentine desserts, no matter how much is written about it. To say Argentina is almost to say dulce de leche.
On its own or with company
Dulce de leche is the essential ingredient in many renowned Argentine desserts, such as Argentine alfajores. But the temptations brought by this exquisite sweet lead many to eat it straight from the spoon, almost as a ceremony only suitable for those with a sweet tooth.
The preparation of dulce de leche is simple: milk, plenty of sugar, and a vanilla bean, all placed in a pot over heat and stirred until achieving a thick product with a rare brown color. The strong agricultural tradition that Argentina has carried for years made it customary for every household to prepare dulce de leche as part of breakfast and snack times. Later, the country's development allowed this custom to be adopted by the dairy industry, and today Argentina produces a large annual amount of dulce de leche.
The great popularity of dulce de leche in every home has led to various versions for different uses. There is the traditional dulce de leche, used for making alfajores, facturas, candies, or simply enjoyed by itself. But there are also other types with different textures for other purposes, such as baking dulce de leche, ideal for cakes and desserts, which has a firmer consistency. There is also dulce de leche specifically formulated for ice cream production.
As with any 'star' of gastronomy, dulce de leche has inspired many imitators worldwide, with different names and claiming to be native products. However, Argentine dulce de leche has achieved international fame. Although its creation was fairly accidental, today it stands among the many sources of pride within Argentine cuisine.
For a people proud of their traditions, dulce de leche is unequivocally Argentine. From these pages, we wish to honor this sweet culinary jewel. Feel free to get tempted, take a spoonful, and enjoy.
